Battery Bank Sizing Calculator

Enter your daily load and how many days of autonomy you want, and we'll size a bank accounting for depth of discharge, inverter loss, and temperature derate.

Bank

24.0 kWh

Batteries

20 × 100Ah

Runtime

3.5 days

Load & Autonomy

Pick a use case to auto-fill sensible defaults, then tune to match your setup.

Use Case

kWh/day

Typical US home ≈ 30 kWh/day.

Cloudy days you want to cover.

Bank Configuration

System Voltage

Ah

Nameplate of one battery.

Chemistry

Losses

%

Modern hybrid inverters ≈ 92–96%.

%

0% in conditioned space; 10–20% in cold.

The Math

How It Works

Battery sizing is one equation stretched over four real-world losses. Here are the four calculations behind every number on this page.

/01

Daily Load × Days of Autonomy

Start with the energy your loads consume per day, in kWh. A typical US home runs about 30 kWh/day; an efficient off-grid cabin runs 3–6 kWh/day; a 12V RV with lights, fridge, and laptop is closer to 1–2 kWh/day.

Multiply by the number of cloudy days you want to ride through. Whole-house backup typically picks 1 day. Off-grid cabins pick 2–3 days so a stretch of bad weather doesn't drain the bank.

load Wh = daily kWh × days × 1000
/02

Depth of Discharge & Chemistry

Every battery has a safe discharge limit. LiFePO4 (lithium iron phosphate) handles 80% depth of discharge cycle after cycle, which makes it the modern default for off-grid and home backup.

Lead-acid chemistries (AGM, Gel) top out at about 50% DoD before cycle life drops sharply. A 10 kWh AGM bank delivers 5 kWh of usable energy. The calculator scales up nameplate capacity to hit your required usable kWh.

usable = nameplate × DoD
/03

Inverter & Temperature Losses

A 90%-efficient inverter converts 90% of each watt-hour into useful AC power. Modern hybrid inverters reach 92–96%. The calculator sizes the bank for what comes out the AC side, so inverter efficiency is factored in.

Cold weather reduces available capacity. Lead-acid loses about 20% at freezing and about 40% near 0°F. LiFePO4 is more forgiving (10–15% at freezing) but stops accepting charge below 32°F. Set the temperature derate to 10–20% if your bank lives outdoors in a cold climate.

required Wh = load Wh ÷ (DoD × inv eff × (1 − derate))
/04

Converting Wh to Batteries

Divide required watt-hours by your system voltage to get bank amp-hours. Higher voltages (48V) carry 4x less current through the wires compared to 12V, which means thinner wiring, smaller charge controllers, and lower resistive losses.

From there, the calculator works out the layout: how many 12V-nominal batteries wire in series to hit the bus voltage, and how many parallel strings reach the required Ah. Round up to a whole number; partial strings aren't usable.

bank Ah   = required Wh ÷ system V, rounded up
batteries = ceil(bank Ah ÷ battery Ah) × (system V ÷ 12)

Chemistry

LiFePO4 vs Lead-Acid

Quick reference for the three chemistries this calculator supports.

ChemistryDoDCycles$/kWhWeightLifespan
LiFePO480%3,000+~$300Light10–15 yrs
AGM50%500–1,000~$180Heavy4–7 yrs
Gel50%500–1,000~$230Heavy4–7 yrs

FAQ

How many days of backup do I really need?

For grid-tied home backup, 1 day is usually enough, since most US utility outages last under 8 hours. The bank carries you through evening and overnight; solar refills it the next day.

For off-grid cabins and full-time setups, 2–3 days is standard. It covers a long cloudy stretch without forcing a generator start. Bank size and cost grow in step with every day you add (a 4-day bank costs twice a 2-day bank), and the extra days rarely earn their cost, so most builders pair a 2–3 day bank with a backup generator.

Why does depth of discharge (DoD) matter?

DoD is the percentage of nameplate capacity you can use without damaging cycle life. A 10 kWh battery rated for 50% DoD gives you 5 kWh of real, usable energy; the rest is reserve to protect the cells.

LiFePO4 tolerates 80% DoD cycle after cycle. AGM and Gel lose cycle life rapidly past 50% DoD: a lead-acid bank discharged to 80% routinely will last roughly half as long. The calculator above uses 80%/50%/50% by chemistry.

Is lithium worth the price difference over lead-acid?

Per kWh nameplate, lithium (LiFePO4) prices have fallen to about 1.5–1.7x lead-acid. For that premium you get 3–6x the cycles (3,000+ vs 500–1,000) and 1.6x the usable capacity per kWh (80% DoD vs 50%). And because lead-acid needs a much bigger bank to deliver the same usable energy, the upfront cost gap for a whole bank is now small. On a per-usable-kWh-cycle basis, lithium is typically 3–5x cheaper over the bank's life.

Lead-acid still has a place: short-duration emergency backup that rarely cycles, or projects where upfront cash is the tight constraint. For any system that cycles daily, LiFePO4 wins on total cost of ownership.

Can I mix old and new batteries?

Avoid it. A bank performs at the level of its weakest cell. Adding a fresh battery to an aged pack forces the new one to age prematurely while the old ones get overworked. Total bank life typically drops 30–50%.

If one battery in a series string fails, the practical call is usually to replace the whole bank. If you have parallel strings, you can sometimes pull a bad string and run on the remaining matched units while you decide.

Do I need to derate for cold temperatures?

Yes, especially for lead-acid. At 32°F (0°C), AGM/Gel batteries lose roughly 20% of usable capacity; at 0°F (-18°C), they lose ~40%. LiFePO4 holds up better (10–15% loss at freezing), but most LiFePO4 batteries stop accepting charge below 32°F to prevent permanent plating damage.

If your bank lives in an unheated space in a cold climate, derate 10–20% in the calculator and budget for an insulated battery box with low-wattage heat (a $30 reptile heating pad on a thermostat works well).

Should I pick 12V, 24V, or 48V?

12V is standard for RVs and small van builds, where most accessories, fridges, and lights are already 12V native.

24V is a middle ground for cabins around 3–5 kW. 48V is the modern default for whole-house and off-grid homes. Higher voltage means lower current for the same power, which cuts wire size, charge-controller cost, and resistive losses. Most pre-built lithium server-rack batteries (EG4, SOK, Pytes) ship 48V for this reason.

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