Load & Autonomy
Pick a use case to auto-fill sensible defaults, then tune to match your setup.
Use Case
Typical US home ≈ 30 kWh/day.
Cloudy days you want to cover.
Bank Configuration
Higher V = thinner wires.
Nameplate of one battery.
Chemistry
Losses
Modern hybrid inverters ≈ 92–96%.
0% in conditioned space; 10–20% in cold.
The Math
How It Works
Battery sizing is one equation stretched over four real-world losses. Here are the four calculations behind every number on this page.
Daily Load × Days of Autonomy
Start with the energy your loads consume per day, in kWh. A typical US home runs about 30 kWh/day; an efficient off-grid cabin runs 3–6 kWh/day; a 12V RV with lights, fridge, and laptop is closer to 1–2 kWh/day.
Multiply by the number of cloudy days you want to ride through. Whole-house backup typically picks 1 day. Off-grid cabins pick 2–3 days so a stretch of bad weather doesn't drain the bank.
load Wh = daily kWh × days × 1000
Depth of Discharge & Chemistry
Batteries can't be safely drained to empty. LiFePO4 (lithium iron phosphate) handles 80% depth of discharge cycle after cycle — that's the modern default for off-grid and home backup.
Lead-acid chemistries (AGM, Gel) tolerate only ~50% DoD before cycle life drops sharply. So a 10 kWh AGM bank only delivers 5 kWh of usable energy. We inflate nameplate capacity to make sure you have enough usable kWh.
usable = nameplate × DoD
Inverter & Temperature Losses
A 90%-efficient inverter loses ~10% of every watt-hour as heat. Modern hybrid inverters hit 92–96% — close to ideal but not free. We divide by inverter efficiency to size the bank for what comes out the AC side.
Cold weather cuts available capacity: lead-acid loses ~20% at freezing, ~40% near 0°F. LiFePO4 is more forgiving (10–15% at freezing) but stops accepting charge below 32°F. Set the temperature derate to 10–20% if your bank lives outdoors in a cold climate.
required Wh = load Wh ÷ (DoD × inv eff × (1 − derate))
Converting Wh to Batteries
Required watt-hours divided by your system voltage gives bank amp-hours. Higher voltages (48V) cut the current carried by the wires by 4× compared to 12V, which means thinner wiring, smaller charge controllers, and lower resistive losses.
Then we figure out the layout: how many 12V-nominal batteries you wire in series to hit the bus voltage, and how many parallel strings you need to reach the required Ah. Round up — half a string isn't a thing.
bank Ah = required Wh ÷ system V
batteries = ceil(bank Ah ÷ battery Ah) × (system V ÷ 12)
Chemistry
LiFePO4 vs Lead-Acid
Quick reference for the three chemistries this calculator supports.
| Chemistry | DoD | Cycles | $/kWh | Weight | Lifespan |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| LiFePO4 | 80% | 3,000+ | ~$400 | Light | 10–15 yrs |
| AGM | 50% | 500–1,000 | ~$200 | Heavy | 4–7 yrs |
| Gel | 50% | 500–1,000 | ~$250 | Heavy | 4–7 yrs |
FAQ
Common Questions About Battery Bank Sizing
How many days of backup do I really need?
For grid-tied home backup, 1 day is usually enough — most US utility outages last under 8 hours. The bank carries you through evening and overnight; solar refills it the next day.
For off-grid cabins and full-time setups, 2–3 days is standard. It covers a long cloudy stretch without forcing a generator start. Going past 4 days roughly doubles bank cost for every extra day, so most builders pair a 2–3 day bank with a backup generator.
Why does depth of discharge (DoD) matter?
DoD is the percentage of nameplate capacity you can use without damaging cycle life. A 10 kWh battery rated for 50% DoD gives you 5 kWh of real, usable energy — the rest is reserve to protect the cells.
LiFePO4 tolerates 80% DoD cycle after cycle. AGM and Gel lose cycle life rapidly past 50% DoD: a lead-acid bank discharged to 80% routinely will last roughly half as long. The calculator above uses 80%/50%/50% by chemistry.
Lithium vs lead-acid — is the price difference worth it?
Per kWh nameplate, lithium (LiFePO4) costs about 2× lead-acid. But you get 5–6× the cycles (3,000+ vs 500–1,000) and 1.6× the usable capacity per kWh (80% DoD vs 50%). On a per-usable-kWh-cycle basis, lithium is typically 3–4× cheaper over the bank's life.
Lead-acid still has a place: short-duration emergency backup that rarely cycles, or projects where upfront cash is the tight constraint. For any system that cycles daily, LiFePO4 wins on total cost of ownership.
Can I mix old and new batteries?
Don't. A bank performs at the level of its weakest cell. Adding a fresh battery to an aged pack forces the new one to age prematurely while the old ones get overworked — total bank life typically drops 30–50%.
If one battery in a series string fails, the practical call is usually to replace the whole bank. If you have parallel strings, you can sometimes pull a bad string and run on the remaining matched units while you decide.
Do I need to derate for cold temperatures?
Yes — especially for lead-acid. At 32°F (0°C), AGM/Gel batteries lose roughly 20% of usable capacity; at 0°F (-18°C), they lose ~40%. LiFePO4 holds up better (10–15% loss at freezing), but most LiFePO4 batteries refuse to accept charge below 32°F to prevent permanent plating damage.
If your bank lives in an unheated space in a cold climate, derate 10–20% in the calculator and budget for an insulated battery box with low-wattage heat (a $30 reptile heating pad on a thermostat works well).
12V, 24V, or 48V — which should I pick?
12V is standard for RVs and small van builds — most accessories, fridges, and lights are already 12V native.
24V is a middle ground for cabins around 3–5 kW. 48V is the modern default for whole-house and off-grid homes. Higher voltage means lower current for the same power, which cuts wire size, charge-controller cost, and resistive losses. Most pre-built lithium server-rack batteries (EG4, SOK, Pytes) ship 48V for this reason.
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